[dukeplaysbass]

Jules responded to my post at another forum, and I followed the link to here -- which is a placed I've lurked but never posted.

This seemed to be a good place to make a first post (even if it is cross-posted...hope that's OK). Y'all seem to have more Gibson-centric folks over here......

I just picked this up locally - a 1967 EB-2 in nice shape....the nut is replaced (not pretty but working) but the rest looks original.

What strings are you EB-2 owners using? It's got flats on it now, but I'm thinking of switching to rounds. I mean, I love the mud, and I knew this would be muddy, but a *little* bite wouldn't hurt....

I'd also like to score a good case for this (the half-destroyed chipboard and a bungee ain't happenin'...) and a palm rest/cover.

Any suggestions welcome.

[guitarshark]

Medium light gauge short scale D'Addario XL roundwounds are a good choice IMO.
You won't hear any "bite" if this is a single pickup model, (can't tell from the pics if it's an EB-2 or an EB-2D) a mudbucker isn't capable of producing any real highs, but roundwounds will give you some clarity.
If its an EB-2D, you will notice a big difference with roundwounds.

[jules]

Welcome!

Rounds will give you something different from flats, true, but most EB2 players get the EB2 because they crave that dubby EB sound.

If you really want a brighter tone, you could consider getting a Dimarzio model 1 pickup, which (I think) should fit exactly with no permanant modification, except a bit of soldering. Mind you, that bass looks to be in such nice condition, maybe any messing would be a bad idea.

Me, I use labella flats and wallow in the mud......

[barend]

that brings me to side question (probably covered before somewhere). Do you use special shortscale strings or just normal string on your shortscale basses?
I have a shortscale EB3 and I use normal strings on that. But someone told me that short scale strings are better for the intonation. Is that true? and what are the advantages of shortscale strings? or is it no problem if I use normal strings?

curious what you think.

[DeGecko]

I have an EB-2 'like' bass and currently I have normal flatwounds on it, but I'm thinking of switching to the Rotosound black nylons... (see John Entwistle, John, Rostill, ...)

[jules]

I use short or medium scale strings, but I have used long scale too. The intonation problems will only occur if the silk winding at either end go over the saddle or nut. That is one good feature of the Labellas- they don't have silk windings to interfere with the Gibson two-point bridge.

I've heard that long scale strings on a short scale can endure stress around the tuning key post; the silk windings that end can prevent this, but if you get a too long string, you'll need to cut that end off.

I don't think i've ever broken a bass string - but I play with my fingers. If you want to thrash it with a pick, perhaps you should stick to shortscale strings

The black nylons are good too - a nice tone with hollow body basses for sure, although probably not what the OP is looking for

One last thing about brightening tone - and forgive me if I am stating the obvious - play with a pick, with your hand close to the bridge. This sound will be significantly brighter than playing with fingers up by the neck

[Lefty Bass]

On my EB-2 I use GHS Precision Flatwounds, on my Epi Rivoli I use Rotosound TruBass.

[barend]

Originally Posted by jules

I use short or medium scale strings, but I have used long scale too. The intonation problems will only occur if the silk winding at either end go over the saddle or nut. That is one good feature of the Labellas- they don't have silk windings to interfere with the Gibson two-point bridge.

I always use D'addario long scale strings. They don't have silk windings. But the string s are a little bit bigger at the end the string near (near the ball end). It runs over the bridge on my EB3. Can that cause intonation problems?

Originally Posted by jules

I've heard that long scale strings on a short scale can endure stress around the tuning key post; the silk windings that end can prevent this, but if you get a too long string, you'll need to cut that end off.

Don't know if that is true. I think that D'addario short scale strings have no silk windings either. So no silk to prevent this stress?

[guitarshark]

It's not just the silk, but what's under it. The twisted, lumpy area where the ball end attaches to the string. This extends perhaps an inch past the ball end on average, whether covered by silk or not. Ideally you don't want this to rest on the saddle for intonation and consistency of action, sometimes you don't have a lot of choice, though.

Actually, this would likely be the same length on a long or short scale set. EB bridges have such a short span between the tailpiece and the saddle that this part of the string might rest on the saddle no matter what. The only way out would be using Rotosound Piano String Design bass strings where only the core contacts the saddle and the user must set the length of the core between the ball end and saddle for your particular bass.

To digress a bit: These are my favorite strings for T-Birds. They really bring out the piano tone, if that's your thing. It happens to be mine.

Re using long scale strings on a short scale bass...this has been discussed before on this forum, but it's risky. Sometimes when you wind the wrapped part of the string around the tuner post the wind will fracture and ruin the string. (Particularly on the E string)
A lot of times one will get away with it, but I've lost the gamble a few times over the years.

[hollowbody]

I use DR Sunbeams on my short scale basses. They only come in long scale but I haven't had any problems with separations of the windings. I did put a bit of solder on the EB2 E string after I strung it up to ensure it wouldn't unravel.