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#1
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#2
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looks cool but $85 bucks is kinda steep for a piece of bent steel.for an original,sure.but not for a reproduction.you could make one yourself.
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ROCK-N-ROLL PIRATE...SKATE PUNK. 72 SB450, 76 RIPPER, 77 G3 GRABBER,92 LPB-1, 75 P-BASS,78 T-40,RAT FUZZ & BAD ATTITUDE |
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#3
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Well, at least they are trying. The price is a little steep. Maybe they can make some to cover the bridges on late 60s EBs.
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boom |
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#4
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If they were nickel plated, i'd have a couple. I even considered buying them to get plated, but I guess with buying, posting, tax and plating they could get expensive.
Mind you nickel ones just never seem to come up |
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#5
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I know this is an old post, but a few years ago I got one of these made out of mild steel at a local metal fabrication shop. It cost me a six pack of beer, and took the guy about 15 minutes. I then chromed it at another shop for free - The guy was doing a batch of chrome and just added it the paying customer's pile.
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Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights do make a left. |
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#6
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Buyer beware! I've found some unit to unit variations here, with the screw holes and the side tabs also. Had to send two back to the manufacturer, so I gave up. My original is somewhere hiding here; just gotta look for it. Playing is easier without it anyway, I think.
Repros are almost NEVER as good as the originals |
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#7
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I generally don't use them either. I just recently bought a batch of single screw hole rosewood thumbrests - I don't want to add holes to my basses, but one of these where the old handrest used to go greatly increases the playability of old EBs/Newports - and completely reversible
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#8
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I have somewhat related story.I had a reissue U.S. P-bass that I got used that was missing the chrome pup cover/handrest.So I ordered the "offical" Fender part.Should be a slam dunk deal ,right ? WRONG . The center hole spacing was about a 1/4" off on the new part as opposed to the holes in the bass,and you could tell that the part had been on the instrument at one time.So......I called and complained.Finally I got a real live person on the phone who went and measured the spacing on another bass.It matched mine....then he went and measured several of the replacement parts and they ALL matched my replacement part.I was offered a refund...Well I started making some phone calls and finally a guy at RS Guitar Works told me that this was common.He told me to get a small piece of a 2 x 4, lay out the correct center to center holes..screw down one side firmly and force the other side as close to the correct spot and screw it down as close as I could. Leave it like that for a day or so...and repeat this untill it reached the correct spot.(I was not able to "man-up " and force it.(Even if I could have done so,it would have probably stripped and pulled the screw holding that side down out .)It took about 3 days. It slowly got the contour right and the correct center hole spacing. Now it looks right. Anyway,you would think that these big companies could do a better job on this stuff for what they charge us for and sell to the public.
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#9
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Old post I know...
What are the original hand rests made from? I had a replica bridge cover made out of mild steel, and then had it chromed, but was wondering if that's what the originals are made of. The replicas mentioned in this thread (and sold on eBay) are made from stainless steel, though I think it's unlikely the orginals were made from that. Plated brass maybe?
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Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights do make a left. |
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#10
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yeah that's right. First nickel plated, and then phasing in from '65 they went to chrome.
The greatdealz[/URL] people had some unplated bridge covers - just the brass, for people to plate themselves. Not sure if they've still got them, there are none listed now. The steel replicas are pretty accurate by the looks of them, and good condition originals can get pricey. |
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